Tamiya Lockheed Martin F-35A Lightning II Build Part 1

Tamiya Lockheed Martin F-35A Lightning II 1/48 Scale Kit 61124 – Part 1

In this Sunward Hobbies article and review I’ll be showcasing the Tamiya F-35A Lightning II in 1/48 scale (item # 61124). You’ll also see weathering and masking tips to make your life easier along with how to make the project less daunting.

This is an amazing kit. The engineering put into it is jaw dropping, so forgive me if you see the words “incredible, terrific, splendid and Tamiya” repeated over and over. Yes, they ask my opinion from time to time, but I don’t work for Tamiya. These comments are for YOU, the everyday modeller.

First, let’s take a sneak peek into what’s in the box.

Even the box artwork is a great reference as to how you might want your model to look like.

Box art work
Box art work

The side walls of the box also have nice information.

Side wall of F-35A box
Side wall of F-35A box

The Contents

The information guides are excellent. Printed in several languages, they give you fun facts to make the build more interesting.

Technical information
Technical information
Technical information
Technical information

There are many examples to chose from, but what’s terrific is that you get a clear reference as to where both the stencils and markings go.

RAM decals and stencils overlapping
RAM decals and stencils overlapping

Printed in vibrant color, you could easily frame these posters. Plus, it will help as an aid with weathering.

Gloss print of subject splayed in studio
Gloss print of subject splayed in studio

Novice modellers will enjoy the added tips.

Tech-tips
Tech-tips

The instruction manual is dense with clear information about how you want your replica to look. Read this pamphlet over a few times, once you’ve decided which aircraft version will go on your shelf.

Here’s a look into how Tamiya have done a splendid job:. Tamiya 61124 instruction manual PDF

Now for some detail to back up the instructions.

All of the sprue trees have been made for the modeller’s convenience when it comes to removing parts. It’s a small thing but very kind considering there are 14 to snip your parts from. Here are some samples of the incredible detail Tamiya replicated.

Sprue A
Sprue A
Sprue A
Sprue A
Sprue A
Sprue A
Sprue A
Sprue A

And now for sprue C and onward.

Sprue C
Sprue C
Sprue C
Sprue C
Sprue C
Sprue C
Sprue C
Sprue C

There are duplicate E/M sprue trees.

E and M sprues
E and M sprues
E and M sprues
E and M sprues
E and M sprues
E and M sprues
E and M sprues
E and M sprues

And now the rest of them… enjoy!

Sprue tree
Sprue tree
Detailed view
Detailed view
Detailed view
Detailed view
Detailed view
Detailed view
Detailed view
Detailed view
Detailed view
Detailed view

The RAM pattern may be a little thick, but the paint will knock that down.

Top view of RAM
Top view of RAM
Highlighted view of RAM pattern
Highlighted view of RAM pattern
Close up on wing leading edge
Close up on wing leading edge

Here, you can see the remarkable work put into the upper and lower frame.

Cockpit area
Cockpit area
Mid fuselage
Mid fuselage
Sprue K flaperons and cockpit tub
Sprue K flaperons and cockpit tub
Belly view
Belly view
Belly view
Belly view
Wing detail
Wing detail
Intake detail
Intake detail

Note that Tamiya have supplied 2 canopy options.

Open and closed canopy options
Open and closed canopy options

The clear parts are, thankfully, blended into the nearby detail, making masking a sinch. More on this in a few seconds.

Clear sprue on paint guide
Clear sprue on paint guide
Clear sprue on paint guide
Clear sprue on paint guide

The national marking decals are excellent. Nice and thin, they come off the sheet with no fuss. Buy some setting solution and saturate the area. Once you have one point nailed down you can then swivel the decal in its final location.

Nation markings decal sheet
Nation markings decal sheet
RAM decal sheet
RAM decal sheet

Tamiya included metal rods for the Bombay doors along with excellently printed ordinance stencil decals.

Metal rods with stencil sheets
Metal rods with stencil sheets

A masking sheet is included for those fine glass areas.

Masking sheet
Masking sheet

Now for STEP 1.

Please please, read through the instructions several times. Tamiya do not give paint guidelines for the everyday modeller. Select an option and stick with it. This replica will be from Japan or the JASDF. It will lessen the complication when reading through the instruction manual.

Nose area with highlighted instructions beneath
Nose area with highlighted instructions beneath

Also, note the precision of the release tabs and how they are easily removed after snipping. This means almost zero chance of messing up the curve of the plastic.

Close-up of the underside of the nose area
Close-up of the underside of the nose area

For this version I need to add the cross-radar parts. You can buy a nice pin vice from Sunward Hobbies. It works smoothly and allows you a super fine indent into the styrene.

Pin vise on underside of part
Pin vise on underside of part

When I see a “correction” sheet it’s like getting a gift. Someone has built this model before production and then told their boss “We need to fix this”. And so did Tamiya. Follow the corrections sheet.

Correction sheet over instructions
Correction sheet over instructions

Be mindful how sharp these parts are, no joke. I pricked my finger and thumb twice because the mold is so sharp. Always mask the lighter colors first. Due to the fine detail in the cockpit area no primer was used. You’ll have to mask this top nose area twice. Make certain the paint has completely hardened.

Correction sheet with model above
Correction sheet with model above

When cutting the masking lines, to get the best fit slice inside and over the inner edge. Please use a new sharp N0.11 blade for the best results. You can buy them from Sunward Hobbies. They are really inexpensive and a must-have for any project.

Excel Hobby Blades No 11 blade on cutting mask template
Excel Hobby Blades No 11 blade on cutting mask template
Clear sprue on cutting mask template
Clear sprue on cutting mask template

Yes, it’s minor detail yet deserves some attention. First I sprayed some AK Interactive black base then followed up with some AK Interactive chrome to replicate the silver/chrome look. There are plenty of products on the market, this was my choice.

Silver masked area on upper fuselage
Silver masked area on upper fuselage

The upper half of the nose section has a curve. Here, I’m using some Tamiya flexible 2mm tape.

White flexible tape on cockpit area edges
White flexible tape on cockpit area edges
Completed mask task
Completed mask task

Here’s a tip, label your sprues for quick sight. It’ll save you countless time and frustration looking in the box when you need a part.

Labeled sprue tree
Labeled sprue tree

After spraying the semi-gloss you’ll need to mask it off to prevent the over-layerage. I’m doing these extra steps to make the model look as real as possible. You decide how far it’s going to look.

Masked cockpit area above instructions
Masked cockpit area above instructions

Finally, for step 1, you can see the result. A spectacular model in the works.

Port side view of upper model
Port side view of upper model
Aft view
Aft view
Overhead view of cockpit area
Overhead view of cockpit area

Stay tuned because there’s plenty more to come on this “Best in Class” replica.

If you have any questions about the products or methods used in this article, please feel free to ask the staff when you pick up or place your next order from Sunward Hobbies.

H.G. Barnes is a former voice-over artist and retired sales and marketing professional. He’s the author of two large volume science fiction adventure romance novels with many more in the works. For well over 40 years he’s been building scale model replicas and now does commission work for clients in Canada and the USA, plus completes projects for companies in Asia and Europe.
Currently H.G. is involved as an Associate Editor with KitMaker Network’s Online Magazine Channels.

Next: Part 2

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